Coliseum, Museum, Churches, and the Holy Stairs

May 25, 1897

This morning we took a car for the colosseum(sic) and were soon at that most stupendous of buildings. We went into the arena and thought of the blood shed and carnage and martyrdom of thousands those immense walls had witnessed. We saw the dens and vaults under the arena and ascended up to the top of the fourth story and yet the immense wall on the east and north sides towered far above us. It is a sad ruin. Mighty and yet despoiled of its choicest materials. For centuries serving as a quarry for emperors, kings, popes and nobles for castle, palace or church. Holes have been made in the stone and masonry to extract the iron which was very valuable in the middle ages. This was the largest theatre in the world and had seats for 50,000 people. It was completed by the Emperor Titus in A.D. 80 and during its inauguration of 100 days 5000 wild animals were killed in gladiatorial contests. It was a third of a mile around and 157’ high. It is so immense that one does not appreciate its size until seen from above and below and at a distance. We saw the pedestal or ruins of one, for the gigantic monument Nero erected to his own honor. Next was the Arch of Constantine, the finest and best reserved in Rome. We then went up the old Sacra Via over the same stones that Caesar, Marc Antony and those hosts of great Romans had trod, past the ruins of the Temple of Venus, under the Arch of Titus which is in good condition but much smaller than Constantine’s or that of Septinius Severus, went through the palace of the Vestal Virgins, the Temple of Romulus, the Temple to Caesar where we passed the Oratorical Tribunal where Antony delivered his famous oration over Caesar’s body, the Temple of Castor and Augustus, the basilica of Julia, erected by Julius Caesar where we trod on the same mosaic floor that the Senators of proud Rome did. Then we entered the famous Forum and saw where the rostrum had been. The column erected to Phocas in the 608 still stands as does the arch of Deptimius Severus, and eight immense columns of the Temple of Saturn. Still further are the ruins of the Temple of Peace and of Vespasiun. All these are ruins except the arches. The costly marbles and elegant sculptures have been taken for building purposes or destroyed by fanatical zeal. All around are broken columns, pieces of inscriptions and ruined marble. The whole ruins laid for hundreds of years under 20’ – 30’ of rubbish and earth and it was not until the present century that the work of excavation began and it is not yet finished. We then went a few blocks further and came to Trajans Column which the zealous Romans of the middle ages allowed to stand, but the emperor’s statue at the top was thrown down and destroyed and a statue of St. Peter with two immense keys put in its place. The Forum is about half excavated and pedestals and pieces of polished columns 4’ to 5’ through alone hint at the former grandeur of the place. On our way home to lunch we noticed an inscription on a house and on figuring out the Latin made out that Sir Walter Scott had lived there while in Rome.

In the afternoon we started out for the Lateran Museum of Antique Sculpture which is situated in a former palace of the popes and adjoining the church of San Giovanni in Lateran. The later is said to have been founded by the Emperor Constantine but has frequently been restored. It is a great and beautiful church. 20 or 30 large confessionals arranged and marked for different languages are around the sides. There are five front entrances but the center one is walled up and is opened only in the Jubilee years. In the niches at each side of the nave which is 426’ long are statues of marble of heroic size of the twelve apostles and over them figures of the twelve prophets by Michael Angelo. The floor is in seats. The canopy containing the relics is overwhelming in gold and ornamentation and among other things are said to contain the heads of St. Peter and Paul. The high altar contains a wooden table said to have been used by St. Peter.

Back of that is the choir, gorgeous with gilt, jewels precious marbles, etc. and with an immense pipe organ. Across the square is the building containing the Sancta Scala or holy stairs said to be from Pilates palace at Jerusalem and once ascended by the Savior. It consists of 28 marble steps about 9 or 10 feet wide and you are only permitted to ascend on your knees. To come down, there are four other stairs. I intended to go up, but saw that those making the ascent, some 15 or 20 stopped several minutes on each step saying prayers and I did not want to seem irreverant(sic) by hurrying and could not spare an hour so did not go. The original steps are badly worn by the knees of the faithful and board facings have been constructed over them, which are also worn. Outside of the church is an obelisk of red granite covered with Egyptian hieroglyphics originally erected by King Tritines III B.C. 1597 and brought to Rome in 357.

We next went to the church of St. Maria Maggiorie first built in 352 A.D. by Pope Liburnias on a spot where he found snow on August 5^th which he was directed to do by the Virgin Mary in a vision, as tradition says. The center one of the five entrances was also walled off here as holy. The ceiling is one mass of mosaic and gold. The first gold brought from America was used here and it undoubtedly represents untold bloodshed, rapine and misery. In the altar are said to lie the remains of St. Matthew and below it, five cardinals are buried here. The sides are taken up with inscriptions and with chapels. The Borghese Chapel opens from the church, separated by an iron fence. The attendant for a consideration admitted us and showed us its glories. He said it was the costliest and most gorgeous chapel in the world. It belongs to the princely Borghese family and is over 200 years old. Under it the Borghese are buried. The decorations are most ornate and lavish. Gold, precious stones, lapis lazuli, alabaster, agate and costly and rare marbles of all colors, with exquisite sculpturing and frescoes have been used as fully as possible. In the altar is a picture of the Madonna and the infant Savior said to be by St. Luke. We also tipped another attendant on the other side of the church who had charge of the Sistine Chapel erected by Pope Sixtus V. It is about as elaborate and lavish as the Borghese.

We then went to the church of Gesu, the chief church of the Jesuits. This is said to be the richest and most gorgeous church of any in Rome and it certainly was “out of sight.” Statuary and paintings, frescoes, gold and precious stones are everywhere. On one side of the transept is a marble statue of God the Father and one of Christ and between them a globe of lapis lazuli representing the earth and said to be the largest in existence. This church was quite well attended and the numerous confessionals were mostly occupied. Ignatius Loyola, the founder of the order is buried here. We then went to the church of S. Maria Sopia Minerva, but as it was getting late and the light poor, we took a cab and went home, thoroughly tired out. Cabs are cheap here. 10? take the two of us in a horse cab anywhere in the city. Rome as nearly half a million people. Many of its streets are wide and modern. It is fairly well paved and is a great improvement over Naples. But beggars are everywhere. At the Sancta Scala we had nine to face. At every church door there are some and in the streets they are everywhere.

Traveling to Rome by Train

May 24, 1897

This morning at 8 o’clock we left Naples for Rome, distance 161 miles, reaching there at 1:30 p.m. There are four classes on the trains, the 4^th however being on the slow trains and consisting of cars open all around the upper half and without seats. The difference in fare between the 1st and 2nd class is about 1 cent per mile. A government tax of 1cent per ticket is charged. The cars have no arrangements for ventilation overhead, no water or toilet conveniences, no heating except that in the coldest weather hot water pans are sometimes placed for foot warmers. The newer cars are more civilized, however. The cars, both freight and passenger, are very small and light, 40 men or eight horses being the limit. The wheels are light and open like our old fashioned street car wheels. The roadbed is rock ballasted(sic). All depots and grounds are enclosed, tickets are taken up invariably upon leaving and no one but passengers or employes(sic) are allowed inside the depot. There is no bell or bellrope on the train and the conductors or guards, as they are called, carry a huntsman’s trumpet or horn swung around their neck, with which they signal the engineer. For 30 or 40 miles north of Naples we passed through the famous Campagna, said to be one of the most fertile spots in Europe. It is well irrigated from the Apenincs and two crops can be grown each year. Trees of various kinds are planted in the fields, their tips pretty well trimmed and vines are planted at each tree and trellesed(sic) to the next one, so there is a regular network of vines. The ground will be in olive trees or lentils. Olive trees are numerous. Every foot of ground over this plain is cultivated and it formed a great contrast to some of the shiftless methods of farming at home. We crossed the Volturno River and various other streams all having yellow and turbulent water like the Tibur here in Rome. The poppy seems to be the leading weed here and in the hill districts some poorly farmed fields are scarlet with them. We passed Monte Cassino with its famous Monestary Perchid hundreds of feet above the plain at the summit of a mountain. This was built in the 5^th century on the ruins of a heathen temple. Soon we came in sight of the great Roman plain and then followed the ruins of the great aqueduct for several miles and finally reached the Eternal City. We stopped at a pension or boarding house at nos. 7 and 8 Via San Basilio kept by Swiss nuns. They wait on us, dressed in their black garb and a large iron door closes the court. When we ring, a sister pulls a slide and looks at us thru a perforated iron plate and then opens the door with a great key. Every room has a crucifix, pictures of saints, etc., but we are comfortable and it is a new experience. While out this afternoon we engaged passage home by way of Montreal through H. Gage and Sons, paying them ten pounds down. Also arranged with Lemon and Co. to ship our surplus clothing, wraps, etc. to Stockholm. The barber shops in Italy are hair dressing establishments for both sexes and they also keep stacks of perfumery and soaps. The millinary(sic) stores keep men’s hats also. Many of the women of the poorer classes wear their corsets outside of their dresses.

Sunday rest at the Aquarium and National Museum

May 23, 1897

Today we started for a walk to stretch our cramped limbs. It was a beautiful Sunday morning, but the shops were open and the streets about as full of hawkers, burros and goats as on week days. We went down to the park on the bay and spent an hour looking at the aquarium which is said to be one of the finest in Europe. The devil fishes or octopus, the coral sponges, jelly fishes and shells were very interesting. We also took a peep in the National Museum, which contains nearly all of the Pompeiian antiquities together with masterpieces of Italian art and sculpture. The sarcophagus of Tiberius Caesar in white marble with elegant sculpturing on the sides was especially fine. We spent the afternoon in our room writing this diary and thinking of our dear ones at home. We have no chance to go to church except to Catholic ones where we couldn’t understand what was said. The rooms of the Italians, no matter how poor they may be, contain the picture of some saint with a lot of wax candles surrounding it.

Pompeii and Vesuvius

May 22, 1897

This morning we took a cab for the depot to go to Pompeii. The station or depot is large, but very dirty. Four classes of tickets are sold. We went 2n^d class. The cars are divided into three compartments, each one separate and a door opening on each side of the car. Each compartment seats 10, 5 on a side. The station at Pompeii is surrounded by restaurants, etc. and is only a few minutes walk from the entrance to the buried city, where we paid two frances or 40 cents each admission and were soon amidst the silent relics of the past. We first entered the museum where human bodies, remains of horses, dogs, cats, etc. were shown and also various domestic utensils, tools, etc. We then entered Pompeii. It was destroyed by the eruption of A.D. 79 and was rediscovered in 1748. About half of the old city has been excavated and the government is still working at it, using the admission fees for the purpose, boys doing most of the work, digging and wheeling at 40 centimes, not quite 10 cents a day. The streets of Pompeii were narrow. The sidewalks of brick or stone about 2’ – 4’ wide and the driveway only wide enough for a single chariot 5’ – 6’ wide and all paved with lava blocks which were deeply rutted at the sides from the wear. The main street was wide enough for two chariots to pass. Stone drinking fountains were at many corners and the stone face out of which the water came was badly worn in all cases by the drinkers putting their mouths against it to catch the water while the stone basin at each side showed the wear of the hands as they had supported themselves while drinking. Many of the houses were pretentious and comfortable in plan. In the court as you entered would be a basin for catching the rain water, then behind that an open court with flowers, fountains, etc. from which the bedrooms opened. Then behind that a dining room, then the kitchen, etc. Many of the walls had mythological paintings and frescoes on them. The Court of Justice was a large building surrounding an open court and at one end of which the tribunes sat on an elevated stage. The Forum or public square, the theatre, with its worn steps of stone to the galleries and the seats in the shape of an amphitheater for combats with man and beast, the shops – the butchers with a stone block in front for cutting up the meat, the bakers with its ovens, the oil dealers and wine merchants with the great stone jars, the jar and crockery dealers, the horse market, the bank with the mosaic in the floor at the entrance of “Salve lucruum” and many other things were intensely interesting. Some streets were not for chariots and these were blocked at each end with stone pillars, while all had 2 or 3 large stones laid here and there for stepping stones. Some of the floors were of beautiful mosaic work. We took lunch at the Hotel Diomede costing 5 liras or 1.00 and were presented with a written bill of 1.00 for the lunch and 40 centimes or 8cents for “service”. I asked the waiter what that was for and he said “sarvees, sarvees.” I asked him how he could furnish lunch without serving it and he shrugged his shoulders and said “40 centimes.” I said not much, but gave him 10 as a tip.

We then took a carriage for Vesuvius, the ascent being said to be five miles, but I think the way we feel it must be ten or fifteen. After driving a couple of miles and while the road was still comparatively good, we had to leave the cab and mount horses and off we started to climb Vesuvius with a guide at the head and a small boy with a whip hanging onto the tail of the last horse, and bringing up the rear with cuts and cracks of his whip every now and then at the legs of our horses who evidently were not entirely satisfied with their treatment the way they acted and when we told to quit the kid would just give them another clip and say “donta be ‘fraid.” He said the Misses horse was named “Macaroni” and mine was named “Beefsteak,” I suppose because they pounded him so. Our trip was to cost 12 frances or liras each. On starting horse back they wanted wine. After a canter of half a mile through the lava we came to another place where they wanted wine. We said no and we pushed on up the mountainside till we came to where a zigzag road had been constructed though the lava and ashes to the cone. Here was another house and the guide said “We get verra dry and this is the last chance” so as they had no water and nothing but bottled stuff we had some bottled lemon soda – cost 1.85 liras, then went on up the winding path to the beginning of the cone, where we had to leave our horses and proceed on foot. Here they had wine in a pail and wanted “somma for the guide.” We protested, then the Italians said “Signorina and signor hava help, taka holda rope, one pulla and the other pusha, vera hard, climba the mount.” So I asked what that would be and they said 2 francs each man. I said go ahead with the signorina and a husky Italian with a strap over his shoulder went first, madam hanging onto the strap and another big Italian pushing her from behind. I found the going so steep and hard in the soft ashes and lava that I soon utilized two of the others who had followed begging for a job. The path although zigzagged was very steep, over 50 or 55 degrees and we had frequently to rest. Here we were called on to pay a government tax of 7 lira $1.40. Soon we got to where the ground was smoking and the surface was covered with yellow sulphur(sic) and after awhile to the summit which as near as I could judge in the smoke was about 20 – 40 acres in area.

We approached the edge of the crater, the ground being the soft disintegrated lava and sulphur(sic) and stood at the edge within a yard or so of the yawning abyss, from which the smoke is continually ascending. I should judge the crater to be about 1000 feet across and from 1000 to 2000 feet deep with almost perpendicular sides. Way down at the bottom the smoke issued in clouds, sometimes very dense and at other times permitting us to see the rough looking bottom and the two fire holes – there were three in all but the third one was not visible from where we stood. From these openings in the bottom the fire and lava came out in periodical puffs or bursts with a hissing noise like thousands of immense skyrockets and all the time a rumbling increasing at these outbursts, in volume until the roar was like loud, but muffled thunder. Looking down the crater at these outbreaks we would see immense masses of red hot matter thrown up in a fiery rain, beautiful, but awful to behold, coming up apparently hundreds of feet and then falling back and never reaching the surface while we were there, except that some of the light ashes would come floating up. At the other side of the crater, down a ways below the summit is a fissure where the molten lava was coming out in a fiery stream, which is visible from Naples and show red at night. Our guides took some coppers and embedded them in the lava so as to show one face of the coin – charge 2 liras. We picked up some pieces of lava and got some bits of suphur(sic) and then as it had begun to rain and we did not feel that we were in the most secure place in the world, we told the guides we were ready to do down.

We started for the edge of the summit and there up popped another old man with a pail full of bottled wine “to treata da guides.” They looked very angry at our refusal. The government guide who had taken charge of us near the summit here said he would leave us and had to have a tip, so “half a franc want;” then we started down the cone with our four Italians, one on each side holding back. We didn’t zigzag going down, but just plowed straight down the steep side in the soft ash and lava stones, ankle deep and raising a terrible dust.

On reaching the place where we had left our horses, our four Italians wanted tip and wine. We refused – they got angry. I gave one of them ½ a lira to divide, he said “not enough, wanta a franca each.” Mrs. E. said to take the coin back and give them nothing, as we had paid them 8 francs for their service, and I did so. They stood muttering and sullen and we wished there had been more of a party. They finally asked for the half franc which I gave them and we rode off followed by anything but benedictions. Our guide and boy asked us to stop and “Treata to wine” at two places coming down, but we pressed on. The young scamp was begging all the way down. We finally reached our carriage, gave our guide an extra franc and the boy half a franc and were glad enough to exchange our saddles for a cushioned carriage, and were soon to the depot, tired, sore, sweaty and dirty, where the driver had to be tipped and where we took refuge from the beggars that had followed us, in the waiting room to which fortunately they had no access.

Vesuvius is 1256 meters or a little over 4000’ high. Vineyards covered the sides up to the cone until the eruption of 1872, but now the upper half of the mountain is black and bare, relieved only here and there by some shrubs or a clump of the yellow Vesuvius flower. The vineyards are, however, being extended year by year, higher up the sides and the vines and fig trees seem to thrive in the apparently dry and barren ashes. The farmers make their fences out of the lava stone. On reaching our hotel we found that four of our acquaintances on the steamer had made the ascent by the funicular or COG RR, which is much the easiest route, but which takes a whole day. They had an exciting experience. When they started to descend, they found that a stream of lava from the fissure had cut them off from the railway and their guides packed or beat a path for them across the hot lava which they crossed, but it was so hot they burned their feet through their shoes. It took us a couple of hours to clean up after reaching our hotel and in trying to go to sleep, we saw yawning abysses, chasms, volcanoes and precipicis(sic) into which we were about to fall. One ascent of an active volcano ought to do the average man for a lifetime.

Naples and the Blue Grotto

May 21, 1897

This morning I started out at six to walk downtown – a couple of miles and incidentally to find a barber shop. Naples is built on a hillside and the descent is so steep that the streets are mainly winding. The houses are mostly of a mud brick and from 3 to 7 stories high. The streets in the business and poorer sections of the city are very narrow, often with no sidewalk at all and where any are, they are 3’ – 4’ wide. Some of the wretched streets are not over 10’ – 12’ wide, with 5 and 6 story houses fairly swarming with people and dirt. The sanitary arrangements are horrible and it is strange that a public community, which is civilized, would permit it. Herds of goats were met with the scores, also very large cows usually with a calf by the side; these are driven from door to door and the goats or cow are milked on the spot in the customer’s presence, usually only a glass full to the costumer. The streets being so narrow the goats take the sidewalk as a rule. I have often heard of goats eating tin cans and circus posters, but never believed it, but here I saw goats eating and chewing waste paper from the refuse piles on the streets. The most common beast of burden is the donkey or burro and they are driven singly in carts and haul immense loads in proportion to their size. It seems queer to see a little burro not bigger than a fair sized three months old calf jogging along pulling a load of produce and the whole family perched on the tope beside. All kinds of venders filled the streets with their cry. Bread is carried about and delivered on foot. The bread, macaroni and meat are exposed for sale in the open doorways, right next to the dirty reeking streets, where the odors and dirt are enough to sicken a Turk.

Talk of baccili(sic), Microbes and other germs. This is surely their home. Lovely wild and cultivated strawberries and fine blackberries are on sale, but the surroundings make them unpalatable. Many of the better class houses had nice gardens of flowers, fig, lemon and orange trees. The lemons were large and ripe and we had oranges served us with leaves on the stem. Many of these walls had broken glass set in mortar at the top to prevent trespass. The young ladies are usually plump and fairly good looking. They all wear their hair pompadour and go bare headed, even when dressed up. The cab fare is reasonable – 1 lira, 19 ½ cents – takes one or two people to or from any depot or landing in the city. The street cars are run 1^st and 2^nd class, the only difference being that the former have a dirty cushion to sit on, while the others are rattan. You are in the same car. The street car fare varies from 2 -6? according to the distance.

At nine o’clock we took the boat for Capri and the Blue Grotto. The steamer fare round trip was $2.00, but as they had no wharf you had to pay 12? every time for being taken over in a rowboat both landing and embarking and 4? each way at Capri. We went by way of Sorrento where the finest oranges in Italy are grown, and where a steamer was being loaded from row and sailboats. We saw the house where the poet Tasso was born, the Italian soldiers home and various ruins. Capri is a rocky island in the Bay of Naples. On a rocky precipice at one end were the ruins of the Roman Emperor Tiberius’ villa and in a sandy cove the ruins of his bath. On the northerly end were the ruins of a castle of Frederick Barbarossa. The Blue Grotto is at the north end. The blue water was the lovliest(sic) blue all around the bay. The steamer stopped and we were taken in boats to the grotto; two in a boat besides the oarsman – cost 25? each. The cave is entered through a narrow opening just wide enough to admit the boat and one has to lie down in the boat in order to enter. The cave is 180’ long, 80’ wide, 40’ high in the center and the water is 60’ deep. The only light came from the little entrance and through the water from below. The rock overhead is bluish and the water is the most enchanting blue imaginable. The oars and bottoms of the boats look blue and if you dip your hand in the water, it looks blue. After yelling to hear the echo, we went back to the steamer and then landed at the village of Capri where we had lunch at the Hotel Continental outdoors under an awning, overlooking the Bay of Naples and Vesuvius. We then started out for a walk to the top of the ridge where the main town called Ana Capri is located. The whole island wherever there is any soil is given up to vines, olives, lemons and figs. Every little while we would pass shrines more or less pretentious, erected to the honor of some of the numerous saints Italy possesses. At the top we had the lovliest(sic) view of both sides of the island, but were not halfway up to the rocky extremities at either end. We then took a cab to the landing and a boat to the steamer where boys diving for pennies amused us before the boat started.

One thing one notices here is the large number of soldiers about the streets and several citizens complained to me that the government took all they earned to keep up the army. Another thing is the crowd of beggars, some horribly deformed, that follow you like a swarm of flies. Old and young everywhere whine and beg and follow you for a long way, those deformed exhibiting their misfortune.

Entering the Bay of Naples

May 20, 1897

Another breezy, sunny, beautiful day, the last of our 12 day trip as we reach Naples about 5 p.m. The better half of our party got up at 4:15 to see the sunrise. She came down about 4:45 and routed me out and said it was the most beautiful sight, etc. and that I just must get up, so like an obedient and dutiful husband I went up and saw the same old sun, the silvery moon and the blue water. She, however, insists that the moon was crimson and green (probably caused by green cheese) and the water was golden and red while the sun was grand and seemed not over two miles away coming out of the water. For further details, inquire of the Misses. We have certainly had elegant weather, finer than if we had been the same length of time on the Great Lakes. The stewards and chambermaids on the ship get only 8.00 a month as you are expected to fee most everyone. It is an outrageous custom, but our swell Americans, throw their money right and left and not only pay two prices in the first place, but tip besides. The common soldiers at Gibraltar get 8cl or 16? a day and enlist for eight years – Our run till noon was 356 miles, leaving 84 miles to Naples. We sighted the island of Ischia about 4:00 p.m. and followed down the coastline at close range, passing numerous small and rocky islands many having ruined castles or monasteries at their tops. We then entered the Bay of Naples, which is very lovely and large enough to hold the navies of the world.

Naples with over half a million people lies in a semi circle with smoking Vesuvious in the back ground and the beautiful island of Capri in the front of it. Our anchor was dropped and our ocean journey came safely to an end at 6 p.m. The ship is soon surrounded with scores of row boats, some containing flowers, other fruits, three or four beggars of various kinds and still other boys who would dive for money. The passengers throwing coppers into the water and the boys diving after them and usually getting them.

About 7:30 we were landed at the Custom House where we had supposed, a formidable examination had to be undergone, but which in fact consisted in the soldiers asking me if I had any tobacco or liquor in my grips and on my saying ‘no’ they stamped the baggage as passed without opening it and we took the bus for the Hotel Brittanique where we got a nice room in a high quiet neighborhood for 9 frances a day each meals included and where we retired glad to again have a bed big enough to turn over in.

Spectacular Dessert

May 18, 1897

Our run at noon was 188 miles from Gibraltar and in the 24 hours 292 miles. Weather clear and calm. Nothing new. A lot of additional passengers got on at Gibraltar and beds are made in the bath tubs, in the smoking room, on tables, etc.

May 19, 1897

I stayed up late last night to see the full moon rise. It was rather late so went to bed resolved to make a heroic effort and get up before sunrise and see old Bal come up behind the Mediterranean. As a result I woke up about every half hour till 3:30 and then slept till past five and found the orb of day smiling at us about 15 minutes above the horizon. So we make another effort tomorrow which will be our last day on the K.Wm as we will reach Naples tomorrow about 6 p.m. Our run today was 347 miles. Calm and sunny. We passed one ship and a steamer. At dinner a special effort was made as it was our last one on board. The tables were prettily decorated. Swiss cottages, a foot or so high made of sugared cookies and transparencies of gelatine all gay with little flags, Chinese umbrellas, etc. adorned the table. When dessert was reached the waiters took these cottages away and in a minute the lights were shut off, then the band played a march and our 12 stewards came marching in, each one carrying one of these cottages or transparency all illuminated with candles and after a grand march around the dining room three or four times they put them on the tables and the lights were turned on. They then passed the cottages, etc. around, each one being flanked with blocks of ice cream, almond cakes, etc. with a flag or an umbrella in each.

Land Ho!

May 17, 1897
A beautiful sunny day with a gentle breeze blowing. We passed within a mile of Cape St. Vincent in Portugal about 6 a.m. It is the southwest extremity of Europe and is a bald rocky promontory surmounted with a light house. We saw whales spouting twice this forenoon. Two were within about 200 yards of the boat and we saw their big black backs repeatedly as they came up to blow. Our run was 355 miles.

We passed the Spanish cities of Cadiz and Conil and then Cape Trafalgar where Lord Admiral Nelson won England’s most glorious naval victory at the cost of his life. Opposite on the African shore looms up Cape Spartel. The strait of Gibraltar is about 10 or 15 miles wide, I should judge and both the European and African shores are plainly visible.

We passed the steamer Fulda of the same line as this boat, outward bound in the strait. Point Tazifa and the town of the same name came next on the Spanish side. On The African side were high mountains. We next came in sight of the rock of Gibraltar and swept up the bay of the same name which is two or three miles wide and twice as deep. One peculiarity of the strait was the rough and choppy water. Waves and cross seas in all directions although there was no wind and both the ocean and the Mediterranean were perfectly calm. This was caused by the waters from the Mediterranean meeting the Ocean water. Our first impression of Gibraltar was that it was not as lofty a rock as we had imagined. We also found that the steep face of the rock lies toward Spain, while the end towards the strait is a slope to the water’s edge. We anchored about 6:00 p.m. and were soon at the water port or dock, where we were each given a ticket enabling us to pass the sentries on our return. On the wharf was a mixture; swarthy Moors wearing a white gown reaching about to the knee – it looked like a nightshirt. I saw one stick his hand in his pants pocket so I guess they all wear white pants. They were all bare legged and wore a white cloth wound around their heads. Then there were swarthy Arabs, piratical looking Algerian. Turks, Spaniards and English soldiers of various uniforms – some the red coat, others Highlanders with short kilt and about six inches of bare leg at the knee. One walked the length of the business street, 8 or 10 blocks. It is about 25’ wide including the side walks, which are about 3’ wide and sometimes only a foot wide. The shops are not deep like ours, but usually only 10 to 15 feet deep. Soldiers were everywhere. Sentries with rifles on their shoulders marched here and there. The city of Gibraltar is surrounded by a wall both of land and sea and entrance can only be had by the gates, which are strictly guarded by the British soldiers. A license must be obtained to live there, which must be renewed every month. The Spanish line is on the narrow neck or flat connecting the rock with the mainland, and a customs guard is maintained to prevent smuggling. All kinds of devices are used to evade the guard, one was to have trained dogs carry the good across the line after dark. The bay was full of British transports for carrying troops. I counted 49. Some were just old hulks and apparently had laid there at anchor for years. We returned on board at 10 p.m. and had a lovely view for deck of the town in the light of the full moon, the lights of the town sparkling against the dark rock, half way up it’s steep side.

The boat left Gibraltar at 11 p.m. and as near as we could see in the bright moon light, the east side of the rock was more abrupt then the west. The night was lovely and we could see the African hills across the silvered waters.

Whales & Porpoises

May 15th
More of the wind today and a little more of the rocking on the deep which we enjoy. It will seem strange to walk on firm ground again, we are so used to the motion of the decks. Our run today was 341 miles. Tonight the passengers gave a concert.

May 16th
This Sunday opened the stillest day we have had. Just a ripple on the water and in the afternoon that disappeared and the water was glassy – not exactly level as there was always the ocean swell, but the surface was smooth. We had services onboard today. Rev. Edward Anderson of Chicago preached and four other ministers took part. The services seemed more impressive, being on the sea, all except the music. The orchestra played and the voices were fine, but as the former was in the lower officers dining room while we were in the upper, they kept no time and the singing was a line or two behind. We always got there but usually were a little late. Our run today was 347 miles. We passed two sailing vessels. We saw two whales, half a mile or so, or rather not the whales, but just their spouting.

We saw several nautilus under full sail, thousands of white, bluish, yellow, orange and brown jelly fish and many schools of porpoises. We ran into a lot of them and for about 5 minutes 30 or 40 of them swam in front of the boat, jumping out of the water every few seconds. I was at the bow of the boat right over them and as the water is a beautiful blue I could see every movement. They are from 4-6 feet long, brown on the back and whitish on the sides and the belly. They got tired of a 15 mile an hour gait and would drop out one after another and dart to one side. We saw also some of the larger black porpoises common to New York waters.

The Azores

May 14^th

We are now half way to Naples, having been six days at sea and having come over 2000 miles. The sea continues perfectly calm. Our run was 356 miles. One of the officers told me they burn 1800 – 1900 tons of coal on a trip. I hear that another stocker died and was buried last night. They say heart disease is the cause, brought on by the extreme and unusual heat. I think it is awful and the work ought to be so arranged that the men can stand it. We saw a number of dolphins today. We sighted the Azores about 11 a.m. We have been steaming past them for 5 or 6 hours. They are clearly of volcanic origin. We saw two rocky peaks rising above from the water, whose tops were concave and which at sometime had evidently been craters. The islands are high and with rocky and craggy shores at the foot of which the ocean surf thunders. There is but little level ground. The slopes are nearly all farmed. The land is divided by hedgerows into innumerable plots of various sizes and shapes, of which some are green, others brown and other newly plowed or spaded so it made an immense mosaic. Were the slope is over 45 degrees they have terraced the ground. The houses are nearly all low white structures. Churches and convents are in almost every village. Immense windmills stand here and there. They use the Dutch pattern and are probably used for pumping water. The chief town we saw was called Ponta de la Garda and had about the only harbor and boat landing we saw there. Two rocky peaks practically enclosed a bay in which a breakwater of stone had been built making a small but safe harbor. In stormy weather I would consider the Azores dangerous neighbors to shipping. They belong to Portugal and are over a thousand miles from Gibraltar. We are evidently going to have a change of weather. It is cloudy and the wind is rising. The tops of the hills and mountain were concealed this afternoon by clouds and fogs, which at times reached halfway down to the sea. We passed another city about 6:30 and the last of the Azores were three bare rocks a mile or two from the island, rearing their black heads above the breakers.

Buried at Sea

May 12^th

The ocean today has been as smooth as the Sioux River. There has been just a ripple on it, but not a white cap all day. Another stoker died from the heat last night and was buried in the sea. It must be terrific in front of those furnaces. They work in shifts of two hours each, are stripped to the waist and each man has a bottle of wine in a bucket of ice to keep him cool. Our run up to noon was 357 miles. We passed a school of porpoises about two o’clock; they were tumbling and showing their black bodies occasionally. There are fourteen big lifeboats on deck and life preservers in every stateroom. The band plays at lunch and dinner and also between 10:30 and 11:30. Bouillon in cups and crackers are served every day at 10:00 a.m. and lemonade and cookies at 4 p.m. The only trouble with the food is there is too much of it and we get no chance to get hungry.

May 13^th

The ocean is as calm as a millpond. The slightest ripple disturbs the surface. Our run was 340 miles. We do better with a head wind as it makes a better draft for the furnaces. About noon we passed a ship sailing eastward. We counted 21 sails on her and she made a pretty sight. In the afternoon a steamer was passed, but she was several miles off. Dolphin and flying fish are seen every day. At night a ball was given. One side of the promenade deck was enclosed or rather the half of one side. Flags of all nations were used as drapery for decorations and an additional lot of electric lights were strung. The orchestra furnished fine music and those taking part seemed to enjoy it.

3 Cheers to the US Cruiser Raleigh

May 11, 1897

It grew rougher during the night so that we woke up at times and we saw the beauty and necessity of having the berths so narrow. It was impossible to roll much. The morning was pleasant, wind quite a brisk south east, the sea not as rough as last night, but kept us rather unbalanced while walking the whole day. About noon we sighted a vessel ahead and gradually overhauled her, passing her at probably a quarter of a mile distant. She was one of the White Squadron, the U.S. Cruiser Raleigh she looked very pretty, rising and falling in the sea, one minute almost concealed by the waves and the next showing several feet of her hull below the water line. We gave her three cheers as we passed and the sailors and marines on her responded. Then our band which had been playing during the forenoon started “America” and the cruiser cheered again and we responded. Kodaks were brought out and many views taken. We forged rapidly ahead of her and after luncheon were out of sight. We crossed the Gulf Stream yesterday and it is much warmer today. We had some lightening in the night. Our run at noon was 332 miles, making us 1040 miles from shore. We both had a saltwater bath and I have arranged to take one every morning at 7. While at dinner this evening just at dusk a schooner passes us going westward.

Stormy Water

May 10, 1897

Had a good night’s rest. The morning is dark and lowering with occasional squalls and gusts of rain. The wind has circled completely around us during the past 24 hours. The gulls did not show up today and have evidently abandoned us, thinking we were getting too far from land; but a dozen of Mother Carey’s chickens are still following us. They are a small dark bird, darting like a swallow and occasionally riding on the billow. It has rained all day, at times quite hard. At noon our run for the previous 24 hours was 360 miles at sea. These are knots or nautical miles. The time from noon one day to noon the next is not 24 hours but is given as 23.3 hours.

During the afternoon and evening the sea was very rough. The wide deck sloped at times at an angle of 20 making walking difficult and sending a fellow lurching to one side or the other, unless he watched his chance or hung on to a rail or post. The chairs were all lashed fast to keep them from sliding and ropes were stretched in the middle of the promenade deck for the assistance of those walking and to keep the outer row of chairs in place. Before that was done a couple of big waves careened the boat over and four young ladies in their chairs came sliding down to the rail were we stood and landed all in a heap on the deck. The waves have been beautiful. The great swell of dark water comes rolling up and where it breaks is a mixture of the loveliest blue and green of various and changing shades crowned with white spray and creamy foam. We watch the sea and waves for hours and always see some new beauty in it. If only our dear ones and our friends at home could enjoy this grand sight with us.

We tried to play ring toss this afternoon, but the deck was too unsteady for accurate throwing. Our dinner at six was a little late, the stewards say on account of some of the victuals meeting with accidents by reason of the rolling. The tables all have had strips of walnut set on edge, fastened across them for the past 24 hours, to keep the dishes in place, but tonight we have had at times to hold many of them and some are upset. It was impossible to leave the dining room without holding on, and on arising I was thrown almost to the main table, but managed to catch on to a post coming with such force as to swing around it. We have no signs of seasickness at all and strange to say none at our table has missed a meal since leaving port. Probably half the seats were vacant in our dining room tonight. The report is that a stoker who died from the heat was buried in the sea last night, but our waiter knew nothing of it. Some of the passengers were wet to the skin by a great wave that struck us!

First night at sea

May 8, 1897

We arise before six and after breakfast settle our hotel bill and take the car to Christopher Ferry. We go to the Cunard pier, a block or two distant and see Hannah aboard and bid her goodbye. She is crying at leaving although returning to her own home and parents. She is going steerage which is crowded full and we don’t know where she will be located, but we have to leave her as her boat sails at 9:30 and ours at 10 a.m. We cross the ferry again and soon are aboard the white Kaiser. We leave our baggage in the stateroom and go to hunt for our mail, but to our disappointment got none but a business letter. We write and mail our good bye letters and then take a good position on the promenade deck to watch the people. Friends are crowding to say good byes, there are flowers everywhere, some are crying and some are laughing and the pretty girls are kissing each other till I grow quite sympathetic. The steerage passengers are huddled together on a small part of the lower deck and are mostly rather dirty looking Italians, but no one could look decent in such surroundings as a steerage passenger has.

The bell rings, the warning to leave has been given the last call “all ashore” made, and now the hawsers are cast off, the engines start and slowly the big boat backs out into the stream and then turns her bow to the narrows and at 10:15 a.m. our journey across the great ocean begins. Just as we are getting fairly started we approach another great liner, the Lucania which has also been delayed in starting and lays broad side to us and my enthusiastic “Kodak friend” takes two snap shots of her. On passing the Statue of Liberty on Bedloe’s Island she takes another shot at the helpless and unprotected statue. Off Quarantine lie three great war ships painted white and looking what they are, veritable floating fortresses.

In going through the Narrows a short distance from Fort Hamilton the top of two masts and of a smoke stack stick out of the water, the boat having been sunk a few day before in a collision. By noon we are off Sandy Hook and the pilot leaves us. The Kaiser points her prow due east and the journey of 3250 miles to Gibraltar begins.

At one o’clock we have hunch. Consisting of about eight courses. Dinner from 6 to 7, breakfast 8 to 10. Also lunches at 4 p.m., 9 p.m. and oftener if desired. All the meals are served in courses; clean plates, etc. for every course and the dish washers must have a plenty to do. The bill of fare is “just scrumptious” and for plain people is suggestive of dyspepsia.

Between meals the passengers sit in their steamer chairs wrapped up in their rugs and read or doze or talk as inclination moves them. Our stateroom is no. 140. It is about 7’ square and 7 ½ - 8’ high. It is well ventilated. The berths are one above the other and consist of narrow wire mattresses strapped on iron frames. Each berth is about 6 ½’ long and probably 2’ 2” wide. It is very comfortable but you can’t curl up as in a regular bed. Our room also contains a dresser, a settee, a folding wash stand that lets down like a writing desk and when not in use folds up out of the way. The baggage goes under the lower berth or on a shelf. Toilet and bath rooms are very fine. So are the dining and ladies salons. We have lots of room for exercise or sports. Various games are devised, ring toss, etc. The promenade deck is 250 feet long and about 15 feet wide and reaches a round on both sides of the ship. We have 235 cabin passengers and 261 steerage passengers and about 250 in the crew, stewards, attendants, etc. all in charge of Captain Hagelmann. Nearly all the men are German, as this is a German line. The day has been sunny and bright, not much wind and but little seas running. Very few so far are sea sick, but some of the ladies look rather dubious and are wrapped up and stretched out like mummies. At the table is a Rev. Dr. Trusedell and wife of Chicago, a Miss Breed(?) of Philadelphia, a Catholic Bishop and ourselves. We have two servants to wait on our table. Mrs. E. has had a few qualms and been a little undecided whether to be seasick or not and preferred to stay on deck when I went to bed as she felt more dubious in the berth. She went to sleep in her chair on deck.

News from Elk Point!

May 9, 1897

This is Sunday. We got up at 7:30 after a good night’s rest. The ship rolls and pitches more. There are heavy clouds around and the day looks as though it would end in a storm. The breakers all around are white crested and make a pretty sight. I wish we could have all the Elk Point folks on board for a ride today, that is if they didn’t get seasick. We are still in good shape although quite a few more are seasick. The waves so far are not much bigger than I have seen on the lakes in storms. We had a pleasant surprise today. On going to our room for dinner we found a letter from home and some newspapers. They evidently did not have time to sort and deliver all the mail yesterday and as we had given up getting any, it was a great treat.

At noon the chart showed we had come 348 miles. We overtook and passed a freight steamer at noon, the Tippiten bound for Glasgow. She had four sails set as well as using steam, but our boat with only steam was soon out of sight. The wind is in our favor and we ought to make good time. At 3:30 p.m. we passed another steamer westward bound. Gulls and Mother Carey’s chickens have followed in the wake of the steamer by the hundreds.

The Beginning

Edward Charles Ericson
Sylvia Ann Hayes Ericson
May 1, 1897 - Aug 22, 1897

Our Trip to Europe

It was in the winter of 1896-7 that we decided on it. We sent for literature on European travel, read up the Encyclopedia and studied the maps; all of which gave us not only profit, but pleasure and made me think of the old country lyceum and the subject for debate “Resolved that there is more pleasure in anticipation than in realization.” Especially did I think so when visions of mal de mere and a stormy ocean arose before me. Mrs. E. declares she will not be sea sick. I am more cautious and say I may be. During the winter we outlined our plan of travel and investigated various steamship lines. We decided to go by the Mediterranean in going over so as to take in Italy before the hot summer season begins and then work northward. We had thought of going by the Anchor line, but as their Italian line is mainly composed of freight steamers, taking from 16 to 18 days over, which was a longer sea trip than we desired, on a steamer of uncertain accommodation. We concluded to go on the North German Lloyd and on March 6, 1897 bought tickets on the Kaiser Wilhelm II to sail on May 8^th. But although ordering so early we were not able to get the berths we wanted, but had to content ourselves with an inside state room. The tickets from New York to Naples cost $90.00 each, which is the lowest first cabin rate, running from that up to $200.00, according to size and location of the room, the table service, tc. being alike. We planned to leave home May 4^th which would give us two nights and a day for starting. Our old girl Hannah Shegstad, who is returning to Norway plans to accompany us to New York, her steamer leaving the same day as ours.

May 4, 1897

The eventful day has at last arrived. Court is over and all preparations made. Business is to be a thing of the past for three or four months. Our two valises are packed we take no trunk, our wraps are in a shawl strap, the inevitable Kodak is thrown over the missis shoulder, the lunch basket is filled and now comes the sad parting from our dear ones and our friends, very many of whom show their regard by seeing us off on the train at 4 P.M. On reaching Sioux City we transfer to the sleeper Faribault and next morning wake up in Illinois.

May 5, 1897

On reaching Chicago we are pleasantly surprised to see our old friend John F. Reid at the depot to meet us and we enjoy a few minutes chat before the bus rolls us away to the B & O Depot, there being only forty five minutes, between the trains.

We leave Chicago at 10.15 am. and about 8³⁰ P.M. reach Newark, Ohio, where we take the sleeper “Alysia” for a night’s rest.

May 6, 1897

We breakfast at Cumberland and after a pretty ride through West Virginia hills and down the Potomac, past Harper’s Ferry reach Washington about 1 P.M. After a few minutes stop the train sweeps on, 45 miles an hour past Baltimore and through the tunnel under an arm of Chesapeake Bay which must be two miles or more long, over the wide Susquehanna, through the peach orchards of Delaware, rushing through the Quaker City and across New Jersey we at 7 P.M. reach Jersey City and are ferried over to New York. After seeing to our baggage we go to the St. Nichols Hotel on Broadway and Washington Place and after a refreshing wash, go to bed and enjoy the luxury of a wide bedstead again.

May 7, 1897

After breakfasting we start out shopping. We go to Siegel Cooper Co’s big store and get various sundries for our trip not forgetting a steamer rug. We dine at a café in Union Square and then take the cars down Broadway to Bowling Green to rent steamer chairs, buy some English sovereigns for use at Gibraltar and some Italian liras for use on landing at Naples. We go to the Cunard dock to see to checking Hannah’s baggage and take a look at the first cabin and staterooms of her steamer the Lucania, one of the swiftest and fastest afloat. We go over to Hoboken, N.J. to our steamer the Kaiser Wilhelm II, to see if any telegram had come and are relieved to find none as no news in this instance at least means good news. The Kaiser is a steel vessel 450 feet long, 52 feet wide, 7000 horse power, two smoke stacks, the hull is painted white, while the stacks masts tc. are yellow. On crossing over to New York again we take the elevated road to 125^th St. and walk over to Riverside to see Gen. Grants tomb. It is a large and imposing structure of white marble, but is not yet completed. Workmen are tearing down the stands erected for the big dedication held last week. We return to our hotel and after a short rest Mrs. E. and I take the car and go to Broadway Theatre to see Frank Daniels in “The Wizard of the Nile”, and at 11³⁰ go to bed thoroughly tired.