Entering the Bay of Naples

May 20, 1897

Another breezy, sunny, beautiful day, the last of our 12 day trip as we reach Naples about 5 p.m. The better half of our party got up at 4:15 to see the sunrise. She came down about 4:45 and routed me out and said it was the most beautiful sight, etc. and that I just must get up, so like an obedient and dutiful husband I went up and saw the same old sun, the silvery moon and the blue water. She, however, insists that the moon was crimson and green (probably caused by green cheese) and the water was golden and red while the sun was grand and seemed not over two miles away coming out of the water. For further details, inquire of the Misses. We have certainly had elegant weather, finer than if we had been the same length of time on the Great Lakes. The stewards and chambermaids on the ship get only 8.00 a month as you are expected to fee most everyone. It is an outrageous custom, but our swell Americans, throw their money right and left and not only pay two prices in the first place, but tip besides. The common soldiers at Gibraltar get 8cl or 16? a day and enlist for eight years – Our run till noon was 356 miles, leaving 84 miles to Naples. We sighted the island of Ischia about 4:00 p.m. and followed down the coastline at close range, passing numerous small and rocky islands many having ruined castles or monasteries at their tops. We then entered the Bay of Naples, which is very lovely and large enough to hold the navies of the world.

Naples with over half a million people lies in a semi circle with smoking Vesuvious in the back ground and the beautiful island of Capri in the front of it. Our anchor was dropped and our ocean journey came safely to an end at 6 p.m. The ship is soon surrounded with scores of row boats, some containing flowers, other fruits, three or four beggars of various kinds and still other boys who would dive for money. The passengers throwing coppers into the water and the boys diving after them and usually getting them.

About 7:30 we were landed at the Custom House where we had supposed, a formidable examination had to be undergone, but which in fact consisted in the soldiers asking me if I had any tobacco or liquor in my grips and on my saying ‘no’ they stamped the baggage as passed without opening it and we took the bus for the Hotel Brittanique where we got a nice room in a high quiet neighborhood for 9 frances a day each meals included and where we retired glad to again have a bed big enough to turn over in.