May 25, 1897
This morning we took a car for the colosseum(sic) and were soon at that most stupendous of buildings. We went into the arena and thought of the blood shed and carnage and martyrdom of thousands those immense walls had witnessed. We saw the dens and vaults under the arena and ascended up to the top of the fourth story and yet the immense wall on the east and north sides towered far above us. It is a sad ruin. Mighty and yet despoiled of its choicest materials. For centuries serving as a quarry for emperors, kings, popes and nobles for castle, palace or church. Holes have been made in the stone and masonry to extract the iron which was very valuable in the middle ages. This was the largest theatre in the world and had seats for 50,000 people. It was completed by the Emperor Titus in A.D. 80 and during its inauguration of 100 days 5000 wild animals were killed in gladiatorial contests. It was a third of a mile around and 157’ high. It is so immense that one does not appreciate its size until seen from above and below and at a distance. We saw the pedestal or ruins of one, for the gigantic monument Nero erected to his own honor. Next was the Arch of Constantine, the finest and best reserved in Rome. We then went up the old Sacra Via over the same stones that Caesar, Marc Antony and those hosts of great Romans had trod, past the ruins of the Temple of Venus, under the Arch of Titus which is in good condition but much smaller than Constantine’s or that of Septinius Severus, went through the palace of the Vestal Virgins, the Temple of Romulus, the Temple to Caesar where we passed the Oratorical Tribunal where Antony delivered his famous oration over Caesar’s body, the Temple of Castor and Augustus, the basilica of Julia, erected by Julius Caesar where we trod on the same mosaic floor that the Senators of proud Rome did. Then we entered the famous Forum and saw where the rostrum had been. The column erected to Phocas in the 608 still stands as does the arch of Deptimius Severus, and eight immense columns of the Temple of Saturn. Still further are the ruins of the Temple of Peace and of Vespasiun. All these are ruins except the arches. The costly marbles and elegant sculptures have been taken for building purposes or destroyed by fanatical zeal. All around are broken columns, pieces of inscriptions and ruined marble. The whole ruins laid for hundreds of years under 20’ – 30’ of rubbish and earth and it was not until the present century that the work of excavation began and it is not yet finished. We then went a few blocks further and came to Trajans Column which the zealous Romans of the middle ages allowed to stand, but the emperor’s statue at the top was thrown down and destroyed and a statue of St. Peter with two immense keys put in its place. The Forum is about half excavated and pedestals and pieces of polished columns 4’ to 5’ through alone hint at the former grandeur of the place. On our way home to lunch we noticed an inscription on a house and on figuring out the Latin made out that Sir Walter Scott had lived there while in Rome.
In the afternoon we started out for the Lateran Museum of Antique Sculpture which is situated in a former palace of the popes and adjoining the church of San Giovanni in Lateran. The later is said to have been founded by the Emperor Constantine but has frequently been restored. It is a great and beautiful church. 20 or 30 large confessionals arranged and marked for different languages are around the sides. There are five front entrances but the center one is walled up and is opened only in the Jubilee years. In the niches at each side of the nave which is 426’ long are statues of marble of heroic size of the twelve apostles and over them figures of the twelve prophets by Michael Angelo. The floor is in seats. The canopy containing the relics is overwhelming in gold and ornamentation and among other things are said to contain the heads of St. Peter and Paul. The high altar contains a wooden table said to have been used by St. Peter.
Back of that is the choir, gorgeous with gilt, jewels precious marbles, etc. and with an immense pipe organ. Across the square is the building containing the Sancta Scala or holy stairs said to be from Pilates palace at Jerusalem and once ascended by the Savior. It consists of 28 marble steps about 9 or 10 feet wide and you are only permitted to ascend on your knees. To come down, there are four other stairs. I intended to go up, but saw that those making the ascent, some 15 or 20 stopped several minutes on each step saying prayers and I did not want to seem irreverant(sic) by hurrying and could not spare an hour so did not go. The original steps are badly worn by the knees of the faithful and board facings have been constructed over them, which are also worn. Outside of the church is an obelisk of red granite covered with Egyptian hieroglyphics originally erected by King Tritines III B.C. 1597 and brought to Rome in 357.
We next went to the church of St. Maria Maggiorie first built in 352 A.D. by Pope Liburnias on a spot where he found snow on August 5th which he was directed to do by the Virgin Mary in a vision, as tradition says. The center one of the five entrances was also walled off here as holy. The ceiling is one mass of mosaic and gold. The first gold brought from America was used here and it undoubtedly represents untold bloodshed, rapine and misery. In the altar are said to lie the remains of St. Matthew and below it, five cardinals are buried here. The sides are taken up with inscriptions and with chapels. The Borghese Chapel opens from the church, separated by an iron fence. The attendant for a consideration admitted us and showed us its glories. He said it was the costliest and most gorgeous chapel in the world. It belongs to the princely Borghese family and is over 200 years old. Under it the Borghese are buried. The decorations are most ornate and lavish. Gold, precious stones, lapis lazuli, alabaster, agate and costly and rare marbles of all colors, with exquisite sculpturing and frescoes have been used as fully as possible. In the altar is a picture of the Madonna and the infant Savior said to be by St. Luke. We also tipped another attendant on the other side of the church who had charge of the Sistine Chapel erected by Pope Sixtus V. It is about as elaborate and lavish as the Borghese.
We then went to the church of Gesu, the chief church of the Jesuits. This is said to be the richest and most gorgeous church of any in Rome and it certainly was “out of sight.” Statuary and paintings, frescoes, gold and precious stones are everywhere. On one side of the transept is a marble statue of God the Father and one of Christ and between them a globe of lapis lazuli representing the earth and said to be the largest in existence. This church was quite well attended and the numerous confessionals were mostly occupied. Ignatius Loyola, the founder of the order is buried here. We then went to the church of S. Maria Sopia Minerva, but as it was getting late and the light poor, we took a cab and went home, thoroughly tired out. Cabs are cheap here. 10? take the two of us in a horse cab anywhere in the city. Rome as nearly half a million people. Many of its streets are wide and modern. It is fairly well paved and is a great improvement over Naples. But beggars are everywhere. At the Sancta Scala we had nine to face. At every church door there are some and in the streets they are everywhere.
No comments:
Post a Comment